Achieving shape with fine hair

Hair: Paul Falltrick
Photography: Nick Fallowfield-Cooper

Dear Hair Doctor,

I have very fine, quite thin hair and almost every hairdresser tends to cut short layers and feather them, which I hate. I have tried unsuccesssfully to grow my hair into a bob, which didn't work as the sides were cut into and thinned out, but because my hair is quite thin, it just looked straggly and doesn't keep a style. The hair down to ear length is quite blunt, but the sides which are slightly above jaw length are straggly and it looks like the old 'feather' cut of the 70s.

I'm tempted to have it cut to ear level where the hair is quite thick, because at the moment it looks like two haircuts!

Would this be the best option? I just want to get some shape into it!

Many thanks,

Anon, UK

Hi there,

You're right! Layering is the last thing you need on your soft texture - you need to head towards graduation or one length, which will build your soft hair up and make it look and feel thicker.  Avoid taking hair in shorter at the bottom as this will show the thinness. Blunt edges is what you need to select when your shape is being formed.

Your haircut sounds as if it's old shape versus new hair, so to make the commitment to rid yourself of these ragged, unfinished edges will give you a clean start.  I'm reading between the lines here - I also recommend you don't wash your hair too often, maximum three times per week.  Reason being, the natural oils form an essential part of your hair's strength and dynamics. Constantly washing them in hope of recreating volume is the incorrect approach. 

Graduating the hair at ear level will give you the shape you're looking for and reinstate the confidence YOU need in your hair.

Nelson Brown, Browns

Hi,

There are many hairstyle options for people with thin hair. The most important thing to remember is that if you want to maintain fullness and structure in your style, you should actually always avoid short layers. To give the appearance of longer hair, I’d suggest a classic bob style, taking the back nice and short with graduating longer layers over the crown and keeping hair on the edges to accentuate the shape of the head.

Depending on how fine your hair is and if you're feeling extra brave, you can also opt for a shorter pixie-style crop, which is great for disguising fine hair. To give maximum fullness to your style, always ensure you use the correct products such as Matrix Essentials Style Amplify Foam Volumizer and to finish, Matrix Style Fiber Shuffle Fibrious Play Paste to give your tresses a fabulous lightweight texture.

As there are so many variations of the cropped look, whether it’s keeping the edges sharp, maintaining a long fringe or taking inspiration from Emma Watson and chopping into the cut to create lots of texture, there’s a look out there to suit everyone. If you’re ever unsure about going for the chop, I’d always recommend booking in for a consultation to ensure you feel 100% confident that your hairdresser understands your needs and concerns, so you’ll step out of the salon with the haircut you’ve always dreamed of.

Paul Falltrick, Paul Falltrick Hairdressing

Hi there,

A common misconception with fine hair is that if you layer the hair, the  more volume will be created. But actually this is the complete opposite.

Layers are great for thick hair because they remove weight from a haircut whilst maintaining volume and shape. Whereas you need weight to be built up so your hair looks more substantial and heavier.

I would recommend that you cut the base length of your hair up and then persevere with growing all the layers down and having it bluntly cut (rather than cut into feather style). The aim would be to create a soft, graduated shape with a healthy strong baseline and long layers. This will give the illusion of more hair, which you are after.

Product wise, I can recommend Bumble and bumble Thickening Hairspray, spraying liberally onto towel-dried hair and then blow-dried.

John Clark, Brooks+Brooks

Hi,

Why not use Système Volume from Balmain? This revolutionary system is very quick, comfortable to wear and undetectable. It can add up to 50% more hair and with 18 colours to choose from with two different hair types, you're bound to find the best to meet your needs.

Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons