I want my hair light ash blonde but am terrified of going ginger in the process!

Hi,

I need advice or should I say a solution. I recently, which was the first of this month, dyed my hair level 3 dark brown, it turned out very dark so I cleansed it to fade it slightly, my ends are damaged and are lighter then my rest of my hair. I’m a natural level 4, but I want to correct my colour to a light ash blonde.

I purchased the light ash from Wella Viva Sunny Blonde #90 and #91 to mix but the problem is I know colour can’t lift colour, so I need to remove the previous colour which is dark brown but I’m scared to get orange hair! what would u suggest please? I need your help! I need the right formula to do it, we have terrible hairstylists here and I don’t trust them where I live and I need to fix my hair ASAP and do it myself!

I thought of doing the shampoo bleach hair removal, not sure if this is a good idea? To tell you a bit about my features I’m fair yellowish under toned skin with hazel eyes which has the honey hue. What would you recommend me to do? I'll be so grateful to hear a reply.

Another thing I'd like to know as well, how would I retouch my regrowth once going lighter?

Thank you so much, awaiting your reply

Anon, Saudi Arabia

This is a big job. I don't know much about the hairstylists in your part of the world but I cannot stress enough that this isn't easy and doing it on oneself would be not advisable! If I was to attempt this huge colour change then what I would first do is assess whether the hair is strong enough to undergo such treatment. Going from so dark to light can be very damaging, especially on long hair. 

If it was in good enough condition then I would first deep cleanse (strip) the hair to as light as I could get it. It would probably look like a orange/yellow colour, very brassy and unavoidable as this is the 'undercoat' of the hair that everyone has. The darker the natural hair the more red, orange and yellow pigment is present. 

After, we would need to bleach the hair until it is a yellow to preferably a pale yellow colour. Now, realistically natural base 4 hair with artificial 3 colour already on it might only lift to a yellow orange or yellow at most. Because there is so much pigment to remove.

Once the hair is at this stage it would need to be toned using the correct type of toner. I would use an ashen one that is designed to neutralise orange/yellow tones. The tone would also have to be refreshed as the natural warmth reappears after shampooing.

As for the maintenance of this colour, every four to five weeks you would need to have your roots re bleached and toned to keep this blonde looking its best. If your hair was naturally lighter then you could possibly have used a high lift tint in an ash reflect in future applications but as you are dark it has to be a bleach product. 

Personally, if I had your eye colour and skin tone I would not lift my hair to light ash blonde. But more of a mid to light brunette colour with highlights. This would I feel be a very flattering look and be much less upkeep and damage.

Whatever you choose I hope you love it.

John Clark at Brooks+Brooks