How can I counteract the blue tinge in my hair without it turning orange or brassy?

Hello,

I just dyed my hair at the roots and brought the colour down and the mid-shaft turned to a bluish tinge. The base is a perfect colour with no brassiness.

I used Joico colour of 1oz 8A, 1/2oz 8N, and 3/4oz blue intensifier with 30 vol developer. I previously used Redken 8Ag (ash green) with 30vol developer which left it a reddish orange brown.

I spoke with a colourist to get the formula for Joico colours but it turned my hair a bluish colour on some pieces. How do I counteract the blue without making the rest of my hair orange or brassy?

Anon, New York

This is a good question and I have seen many people with the same sort of problem. I am guessing from the formula and strength of the developer you used that you are naturally quite dark.

To get a natural level 8 blonde base colour you used a great shade to neutralise the natural brass that can be exposed when lifting the hair. However, the reason that you got a bluish tinge on the mid-lengths of your hair is because of two reasons. Firstly the blue intensifier that you used is great to use in the mixture on your natural hair, but will be too strong on the previously coloured hair so will impart the blue tone. Secondly the formula for the root area is mixed with 30vol which is designed to lift natural hair and deposit tone, on previously coloured hair this is too intense and just makes the hair more porous and damaged. 

If I was colouring your hair I would use the mix you used and got the great result on your root area only and then to subdue any brass or warmth on the mid-lengths and ends I would use the same formula but without the blue intensifier and with a 20vol developer.

This should maintain a natural level eight but without the blue rinse effect.

John Clark, Head of Colour at Brooks+Brooks, London 

Hi there in New York,

As a professional hair designer and hair doctor I recommend you go to a professional salon which specialises in hair colouring. This is the best way to start going about the process of getting the blue out of your hair, because the professionals at the salon can give you advice depending on your particular situation.

They will likely either colour over your hair, bleach it or give you your own steps to follow. Whatever the case, going to the salon about your blue hair is a smart step and a safe bet.

There could be many factors playing a part why your hair has a blue tinge, it could be porous on parts where it was over processed or the colour has reacted due to touching metal - there could be many reasons. Blue and green is hard to get out of hair and is better sorted out by an experienced colourist on site.

I wish you safe colouring and no more blue day's!

Pierre Alexandre of Pierre Alexandre, Manchester