I need some advice on applying an Ombre Colour!

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I am due to do an Ombré colour on a clients hair which is very long and all one length. Usually I love colouring Ombre, but this time I have to do a base colour of 4.0 as her hair is very light/reddish brown so I need to do the base as her roots match a 4.0. But she wants an 8.0 on her Ombré ends!

Where do I start? Roots (4 inches down), then the Ombré technique, and then the rest off her hair, use 4.0?

Argh!! I'm so confused what to do!! Please help me!!! I need some good professional guidance, as we are all a bit confused as to what to do!

Thank you,

Anon, Australia

If I was doing this Ombre colour on my client I would start as follows. Begin by sectioning the hair into the classic four section "hot cross bun" as i call it pattern. Starting at the two back sections I would apply the 4/0 colour as far down as you need to (classic retouch application but stretch down the lengths if necessary). Then once this is done, from the bottom nape upwards I would apply your lightener or 8/0 in whatever style you desire. After complete, repeat the process on the front two sections.

I have a couple of tips for a great Ombre result. Firstly your product choice is very important. Maybe a long lasting semi-permanent shade for the deep colour on the roots will give a shinier and softer result rather than a permanent shade. Also this will be better when light roots appear.

Secondly I like to use pre-lightener to lift up the ends of my ombre clients as this gives me more choice and flexibility when deciding on what final tone I want to appear. Finally use a gentle glaze to finish off the hair and prevent it looking raw and unfinished. 

Hope your client loves it!

John Clark at Brooks+Brooks, London 

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