My hair is very unmanageable and I don't know what else to do!

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I really hope you get a chance to answer this because I can’t get across to you just how much my bad hair gets me down!

I struggle with it every day. It’s dry, fluffy without product and an unmanageable mess with product, it’s EXTREMELY straight - any length on the sides stick out a mile - and my crown is in an awkward place, off to the side.

I’ve never managed to find a product that will tame it all! Wax seems to work a bit better than gel, but still it’s awful, awful hair by any standards. I get it shaven off every once in a while out of sheer frustration, but it doesn’t really suit me.

I hope you can help in any way.

Graham, UK

Hi Graham,

Thanks for your email.

I am always sad when people get so wound up with their hair that they do not know what to do or ask for.

By the description you have given me, and without looking at your hair, these are your options.

Make your hair work for you.
If you are trying to get your hair to do something that it really does not want to do then you are going to have a few bad hair days. If your crown is pushing your hair in a certain direction then you are best to work with your hair then battling against it. This could be mean pushing your hair to the left, right, forward or a textured look

A short fade.
A short fade on the back and sides of the hair when cut every three weeks will prevent the sides of the hair sticking out and becoming annoying. This is an option that is very popular at the moment. By having the back and sides clippered down, it takes the focus off the sides and back and cuts in onto the top of the hair.

Tricky crowns.
It is vital that anyone with a tricky crown, be it single, double or cows lick, approach their haircut with a plan. The general rule of thumb is to leave these areas longer or cut them shorter to allow for the growth pattern.

When I approach haircuts like this (and this is a problem with more gentlemen than you may think), I always cut “quirks” in the hair when dry. If these areas are wet then it is very difficult to see where the growth pattern is, as the structure of the hair is different when wet compared to dry. Therefore a dry cut maybe the better option for you so that your barber/stylist can see what is happening with your hair and make allowances for the crown.

Styling.
This is something that is often very difficult for guys as some stylists/barbers are more bothered about making a sale then showing how to achieve a desired look at home. The main thing to remember when styling your hair would be to blow-dry your hair first. This will set your hair and allow the styling product to get into the hair. If you imagine the inside of your hair is like a spring. When dry the spring stays solid, this is because hydrogen bonds keep the hair in place. These hydrogen bonds are broken down by water, once broken down this will allow the hair to settle into its natural state if not manipulated into place by blow-drying. A great example of this is when ladies go out with straightened hair, if there is no protection spray on their hair then moisture will get into the hair and allow the hair to go back to its natural state.

Fortunately for you, you will not need to go through the tiresome routine of straightening your hair. Simply blow-dry into what way your hair naturally wants to go and use a product like “Pall Mall Barbers Pliable Clay”, which gives a natural look and can be manipulated throughout the day without plastering your hair in product.

Research.
Preparation prevents poor performance! Google search terms like ‘short textured haircuts’ and ‘men’s short back and sides straight hair’. Click on images and save them to your phone or print them off. Then take these along to your good salon guide registered barber shop/salon and ask their opinion.

If you are ever in London or would like any further assistance on this then please email me on [email protected] and it will be my pleasure to help. Also check out our website www.pallmallbarbers.com for loads of helpful video tips.

Kindest regards,

Daniel Davies, General Manager of Pall Mall Barbers, London

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