Using bleach, I am trying to lift a client's hair to a blonde, but it's not working!

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I have recently done a full head of bleach on a lady (her base colour is around a five), as she has previously had highlights but decided a full head would be better for her regrowth and her purse strings.

Her hair is quite yellow on the roots and I need to lift it to a blonde but I don't want to continue using bleach as her hair is not in good condition. The other thing is it is very long and very thick!

Can you suggest anything to help?

Thank you.

Anon, UK

Taking a client from highlights to a full head of bleach application can sometimes be tricky. The best way to go about it is to first apply the bleach to the root area and then process it until it is lifted to a pale yellow undercoat. Then apply the product to the lengths and ends (condition permitting) this is to lift out all the old darker pieces that may be present. You should then process until a very pale yellow is achieved. After the lifting process has finished a toner must be applied to neutralise out all the remaining yellow. You don't have to use a super ash shade, even a soft gold, beige or pearl blonde can look beautiful. 

Unfortunately, if she is a natural level 5 then no high-lift blonde shades will create a pale platinum blonde. It will appear very golden almost yellowish. I would see if she wanted to take her blonde down to a level 8 with highlights. This then could be achieved by tinting the hair without unwanted brassiness. 

John Clark, Head of Colour at Brooks+Brooks, London

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