Why does my hair go brassy after it is coloured?

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Hi,

My natural hair colour is dark blonde but I have had a combination of all over colour (mid brown) and highlights for years.

The problem I am having is that every colour that is applied (I always go to a reputable hairdresser) goes red, copper or ginger, and I'm at a loss as to what to do about it.

My hairdresser did a strand test and the colour was a beautiful mid-ash blonde. When she coloured my hair though, my natural roots turned ginger!

Why is this happening and what can I do to stop it?

Jo, UK

I think what is happening is one of two things. Firstly, as the hair is only going ginger at the regrowth this tells me that you may need a lower developer/peroxide on the regrowth area, as it sounds like the colour may be being lifted instead of deposited.

Also the hairdresser could introduce some more ash tones into the mixture, just in the regrowth area. If the hair needs to be lifted a shade to achieve the desired level then it will throw off warmth as the hair will have copper pigments underlying naturally.

I would recommend booking in for a full consultation with the most senior colourist in the salon, and if the problem persists then it may be time to visit the Good Salon Guide locator and find a new colourist.

Hope this helps. 

Simon Daniel, Salon Director of Belle Toujours, Cardiff

It seems to me that the base colour that is applied to your hair around the highlights may need to be reassessed. If it keeps going brassy, then you may need to go either darker or have an ashen/cool blonde tone applied to neutralise the warm tones that keep appearing. This is definitely one for the colour specialists to tackle so it cannot be achieved at home.

John Clark, Head of Colour at Brooks+Brooks, London

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